Sure, you deal with the odd invader blemish that loiters around your jawline and eventually comes up for air in a violent hiss of blood and pus (yum.)
But if you've ever handled cystic acne – a persistent tapestry of swollen, sensitive and scarlet red spots – then you'll know that you're playing in a whole other sandpit. This develops when cysts form deep underneath your skin, which can result from a combination of bacteria, oil, and dry skin cells that get trapped in your pores.
Although anyone can develop acne, cystic acne tends to occur in people with oily skin. It’s also more common in teens, women, and older adults with hormonal imbalances.
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Reported a significant increase in adults dealing with the skin condition, with factors like hormonal birth control, pollution, stress and overly complicated beauty routine mooted as possible explanations. Living in an age of tumult, like we have been for the last two years, thanks to Covid. This has huge implications for our skin, too: dermatologists agree that stress and breakouts can be linked.
Next up is a dermatologist on why cystic happens and what the treatments for. Scroll on for two women on how they treat theirs – and the skin positivity lessons they've learned along the way.
'Cystic acne refers to acne breakouts where spots are deep, red, tender and inflamed, ' says Dr Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist and author of
Treeactiv Cystic Acne Spot Treatment
'These types of spots have a high risk of scarring and occur due to a complex interplay between genetics and hormones.' A key difference between the acne that most of us are familiar with and this? Lifestyle is not thought to play as much of a role.
Of course, when it comes to treating any acne that you may be experiencing, it's useful to know if yours is potentially the more superficial type, which you may be able to manage via switches to your diet and stress levels, or if you're dealing with the more stubborn cystic.
'If you are getting large spots about 5-10mm in size which are tender and causing scarring, then it is a sign you may be suffering with cystic acne, ' Dr Mahto says.
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'If you're getting acne which fails to respond to over the counter treatments after a few weeks, affects multiple body areas (e.g. face, back and chest), is causing skin scarring or affecting your self-confidence, then it is best to seek medical help early, ' Dr Mahto explains.
She recommends going to see your GP or a derm to start prescription treatments, noting that cystic acne does not tend to calm down with the help of things like skincare treatments.
So, what is likely to happen once you've seen a specialist? 'There are a number of tablet treatments a dermatologist can discuss with you, depending on individual circumstances – things such as spironolactone or isotretinoin, ' Dr Mahto says.
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As to food: 'Dietary changes are controversial but for a small, select group of people (not everyone) limiting dairy and sugar may help.'
If you’re tired of waking up with acne patches and stickers stuck to your pillowcase come morning, then Sunday Riley’s Saturn Sulfur Spot Mask might just be a game changer. The sulfur forwarded formula also boasts blemish-fighting zinc PCA and bentonite that helps to draw out impurities – and for its big finish, 4% niacinamide helps boost skin’s radiance.
The small but mighty paste pot, formulated with a careful balance of de-congesting, deep cleaning and rehydrating ingredients derived both from nature and science, is the perfect spot stopper. Potent combinations of zinc oxide and ferric oxide which make up calamine – alongside bentonite clay, white willow bark and fortifying humectant glycerin – it's what blemish pastes dreams are made of.
What Is An Acne Cyst?
To know Kiehl's is to love science-backed beauty solutions, and the preventative combination of 1.5% salicylic acid and niacinamide in their blemish spot treatment is no different. Yes, blemish banishing sulfur features in the formulation of this paste, but thanks to the inclusion of vitamin B3, the non-drying paste can be used in a thin layer up to two to three times a day if needed.
French pharmacy brands are notorious for their efficacy and Vichy’s Normaderm S.O.S Sulphur Paste – a targeted treatment designed to reduce the appearances of spots overnight – is no different. This topical blemish paste is specifically formulated for oily and acne-prone skin and combines the powers of 10% sulfur, niacinamide and glycolic acid, which helps to minimise the appearance of blemishes whilst you sleep.
Carbon Theory’s no nonsense ‘direct to blemish’ paste uses antimicrobial silver to help stave off acne-causing bacteria. Packed with vitamin A, which stimulates the production of your skin’s natural proteins, alongside tea tree oil – a natural antiseptic that reduces inflammation and keeps skin clear and healthy – the paste is a no-brainer addition to your spot silencing arsenal… (plus, it can be used under makeup in the day!)
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This thick paste creates a soothing blanket over the spot to stop excess bacteria getting in, whilst allowing your blemish to heal underneath. Combining salicylic acid and zinc alongside wunderkind ingredient bakuchiol, the paste works overnight to speed up the recovery process of blemishes, calm aggravated skin and reduce redness.
If you find all your breakouts congregate in one area – t-zone, chin, jawline, you name it - then this probiotic blemish paste will make your life a whole lot easier. The skin-saving paste is infused with distilled witch hazel, white China clay and salicylic acid which helps to rejuvenate and exfoliate – without over drying the area. Spots will shrink and your skin will thank you for it.
We may have come a long way from adges like ‘no beauty without pain’ however, thanks to the high-efficacy sulfur in this blemish paste, beauty might be a tad pongy. Nonetheless, you’ll thank yourself for the smell sacrifice once you see that that this paste really does the trick. This blemish paste helps to speed up the healing process whilst stopping breakouts from multiplying. 10% active sulfur and salicylic scid work to treat blemishes and the added camphor works to calm skin while fighting impurities. It’s suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, making it a perfect undercover spot busting weapon.
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Tricky to say. Dr Mahto notes that there is no set period before cystic acne burns itself out –and, individual depending, it can stick around for years.
'Getting treatment early from a dermatologist is the ideal scenario to prevent long term damage to the skin as a result of scarring, ' she adds.
Aside from potential scarring if not treated quickly, cystic acne has been linked to some mental health issues, such as anxiety, depression, low self-esteem, poor body-image, social isolation and poor relationship building.
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For Dr Mahto: 'We need to look at acne not just from the point of view of reducing scarring risk, but also reducing the risk of mental health issues.'
'I started developing acne at 15, but only became aware it was cystic acne about three years ago, when I was 19. I was referred to a dermatologist five months ago and am due to start on Isotretinoin [also known as Roaccutane] at the end of the month.
[Ed's note: Roaccutane is an acne medication with potentially harmful side effects, and should always be prescribed and supervised by a doctor.]
Cystic Acne Treatment
When it first developed, it wasn't too bad – I could cover it with make-up. But, as it started to get worse, I got very self conscious and stopped going out without make-up on, even to see family. I tried lots of creams and antibiotics and paracetamol, to ease the pain.
This year, I've embraced skin positivity, and am appreciating my skin, no matter what. I used to post tutorials of my make-up looks online but would get frustrated when my spots would be noticeable.
Eventually, I got bored and decided I was fed up of posting false pictures online for likes, so, I stopped editing and showed off my bare skin.
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It was hard and, at first, I was nervous – but everyone was so lovely and I started to realise just how common acne was from people messaging me. I feel so comfortable in my own skin now and accept myself even with my acne.
'I remember first dealing with acne when I was 11 – I was teased by a classmate for having a few spots on my chin.
When I was 16, my skin starting getting out of control, which is when I noticed it was becoming cystic. My skin eventually calmed down, only for the problem to reoccur in college, when it was the worst and most painful it had ever been.
Cystic, Hormonal, And Severe Acne Treatment Cream For Teens&adults Acne Treatment 30ml
I saw a doctor as well as an allergist, to try to get down to the bottom of what was going on. In addition to cystic acne, I was also having digestive issues and feeling sick 24/7. I just wanted to feel healthy, inside and out.
After a few tests, neither could tell me what was causing my cystic acne. In fact, the allergist I saw was incredibly insensitive, and I left his office crying and ashamed of
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